Squalane can be found in ingredient lists. But not all squalane is the same, and for baby skin, the choice makes a significant difference. This article explains where squalane comes from, how it is extracted, why it is so suitable for the most sensitive skin, and its connection to vernix.
What is squalane and where does it come from?
Squalane is a saturated hydrocarbon that occurs naturally in the skin. It is a stabilized form of squalene, a lipid produced by the skin's sebaceous glands and an essential component of the lipid layer that keeps the skin barrier intact.
The name might sound synthetic, but squalane is purely biomimetic: it mimics a substance that the skin already produces itself. That makes it one of the most skin-identical ingredients available.
From squalene to squalane: the stabilization process
Squalene, the natural precursor in the skin, is unstable. In contact with oxygen, it oxidizes, which reduces its efficacy and limits its shelf life. Scientists have found a solution: through a controlled hydrogenation process, squalene is converted into squalane. This saturated molecule is extremely stable, does not oxidize, and retains its properties even with prolonged use.
Squalane can be extracted from various sources.
Historically, it was extracted from shark liver oil. That doesn't sound very animal-friendly. For ecological and ethical reasons, it is also prohibited within Europe to use squalane derived from shark livers in skincare. Unfortunately, it is still widely used in other parts of the world. The modern, sustainable variant is extracted from sugarcane via fermentation. This process yields a plant-based, renewable, and biochemically identical variant that is just as effective as the animal version and completely responsible.
Why sugarcane?
Sugarcane-derived squalane is extracted through the fermentation of sugarcane-based sugars. The resulting molecule is biochemically identical to skin-own squalene, plant-based, renewable, extremely stable, and free from animal by-products.
The connection to vernix
Vernix caseosa, the white, waxy protective layer with which every baby is born, is largely composed of lipids, including squalene. This is the first skin protection nature has devised: a layer that protects the fetus's skin in the womb and in the first hours after birth.
The presence of squalene in vernix is no coincidence. It is proof that the skin considers this lipid essential, even before birth! Qeroha uses sugarcane-derived squalane precisely because it aligns with what the skin already knows naturally. Your baby's skin recognizes it immediately.
Why squalane is safe for the skin microbiome
One of the most distinguishing properties of squalane is that it has no antimicrobial action. It does not disrupt the bacterial balance on the skin. On the contrary: because it is so structurally similar to the skin's own lipids, the micro-organisms on the skin do not recognize it as a foreign substance. It supplements without interfering and supports the barrier that protects the microbiome.
This distinguishes squalane from many other moisturizing ingredients. Where some emollients can affect the microbiome, squalane is microbiome-neutral. This is precisely what makes it so suitable for nascent and developing baby skin.
What it does for baby skin
Squalane is lightweight and non-occlusive. It does not seal off the skin but nourishes it from within. It absorbs quickly, leaves no greasy residue, and is particularly stable to temperature changes. For thin baby skin, which loses moisture faster than adult skin, squalane supports the skin barrier without being too heavy or irritating. Thus, squalane helps retain moisture by supporting the skin barrier. Exactly what baby skin needs.
Want to know more about our ingredients? Discover our Qeroha products with plant-based squalane.
Sources
Pappas, A. (2009). Epidermal surface lipids. Dermato-Endocrinology.
Sethi, A. et al. (2016). Moisturizers: The Slippery Road. Indian Journal of Dermatology.
Nikkari, T. (1974). Comparative chemistry of sebum. Journal of Investigative Dermatology.
Visscher, M.O. et al. (2005). Vernix caseosa in neonatal adaptation. Journal of Perinatology.
